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04 October 2022 | Story Leonie Bolleurs | Photo Leonie Bolleurs
Matseliso Monnapula, Dr Jana Vermaas, and Liezl van der Walt
Matseliso Monnapula, Dr Jana Vermaas, and Liezl van der Walt. They are all involved in a research project to grow a new textile that resembles leather.

Pure curiosity. 

That was what gave rise to the development of a new textile, which was created in the Textile Lab and later evaluated for consumer use in the Sensory Lab of the University of the Free State (UFS).

Matseliso Monnapula, a master’s student in the Division of Consumer Science, is experimenting with bacterial cellulose, which is produced as a by-product in the fermentation process when making kombucha. Her goal is to determine its efficacy as a possible sustainable textile alternative for use in the apparel industry.

She says finding this textile alternative was initially the result of pure curiosity. “My brother brews kombucha, so we always wondered in what other ways this fascinating mass of cellulose could be used.”

“It was upon further research that we discovered that there actually is more to it – from within the textile industry, biomedical and tissue engineering disciplines, paper and audio speaker manufacturing, to even the food industry,” states Monnapula.

She had a greater inclination towards its use in the textile industry and presented the idea to her supervisor, Dr Jana Vermaas, Lecturer in the Department of Sustainable Food Systems and Development. “From there it was all systems go,” remarks Monnapula. 

The interesting process of growing this textile entails brewing tea (black, green, or rooibos tea can be used for this purpose) and adding sugar, vinegar, or previously brewed kombucha to maintain a favourable pH level. “One then inoculates the sweetened tea with a starter culture of acetic acid bacteria and yeasts, also known as SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeasts). It is then left for two to four weeks under specific conditions, during which the fermentation process takes place. In this period, the cellulose gradually starts to form on the liquid’s surface,” explains Monnapula, who was assisted by her co-supervisor, Prof Celia Hugo from the Department of Microbiology and Biochemistry. 

Vegan leather

The process of making bacterial cellulose accounts for the many benefits of this leather-like textile. “The process and its aftermath are significantly less detrimental to the environment than most commercial textiles produced today. It is known that the textile industry is characterised by the excessive usage of chemicals, water, energy, and the generation of toxic effluent that is not always disposed of correctly, thereby affecting human, vegetal and animal well-being. Moreover, it eliminates animal cruelty, and in relation to real leather, it will also be more available and less expensive.”

“Secondly,” she states, “bacterial cellulose is biodegradable, which is one way of contributing towards a circular economy in the textile industry, while moving away from the traditional linear economy we know today.”

Within the apparel industry, this textile, which is mostly suitable for accessories, can be used to make products that are typically made of leather. For instance, bags, jackets, shoes, and bucket hats. 

From kombucha to leather-like textile
Samples of the new textile made from Kambucha. Photo: Leonie Bolleurs 

 

Versatile use

She states that according to their knowledge, the bacterial cellulose has not yet been grown in South Africa or Africa. However, it has been extensively researched in America and Europe. “There have been several experiments to make biodegradable packaging, facial masks in the cosmetics industry, sausage casings, and fruit rolls – and interestingly enough – it can even be enjoyed as a native Philippine dessert known as nata de coco. This goes to show how versatile it is,” she says.

Monnapula says there is still plenty of room for improvement and further development before reaching a point where she can introduce her work as a contender in the South African market. For instance, the waterproof capability of the textile is yet to be perfected. “More research is also necessary to enhance its hydrophobic and decreasing its hydrophilic properties.”

She is also of the opinion that further dyeing, using environmentally friendly methods and natural dyes to obtain a wider variety of colours, is necessary. 

Penetrating the market

Once it is ready, this textile will be a marketable product that can be manufactured for commercial use. “A few European start-up companies have recently managed to penetrate the market and introduce apparel made from bacterial cellulose. I believe that upon further development and modifications, we can eventually follow suit,” says Monnapula.

The bacterial cellulose textile was evaluated in the UFS Sensory Lab, a facility mostly used to test food products. Liezl van der Walt, Sensory Lab Manager, states that the Sensory Lab plays a crucial role in determining the consumer acceptance of new products as well as how the product can be improved. She believes that the textile project was just the beginning of many more textile-related sensory panels to take place. 


Within the apparel industry, this textile can be used to make products that are typically made of leather, including bags, jackets, shoes, and bucket hats. – Matseliso Monnapula

 


News Archive

New projects will enhance the infrastructure on our campuses
2011-02-04

 
Illustration:
The university's Main Gate in Nelson Mandela Avenue, as designed by The Roodt Partnership Architects.
 

A new entrance to the Main Campus, a high-performance centre, commercial gymnasium, rock-climbing wall, memorial garden for women and a botanical garden are but a few of the number of building and renovation projects that will take place at the Main Campus of the University of the Free State (UFS) in Bloemfontein. A number of projects are also being done on the Qwaqwa Campus.
On the Main Campus the entrance in Nelson Mandela Avenue is being adapted to match the university’s new corporative identity which was introduced last week. This project will be completed at the end of March 2011,
 
The creation of an environment conducive to the development of its students in the field of teaching, learning and research, as well as sports and culture is one of the main reasons why the UFS is renovating existing buildings and developing new infrastructure.
 
With the construction of a high-performance centre and commercial gymnasium, the university wants to create a work environment for its staff that will not only contribute to the cultivation of maximum work performance, but also to staff wellness. The centre with its foyer and administrative offices will furthermore consist of a health desk, university sports institute, sports sales, a spinning and aerobic centre, and dressing rooms. The total area will extend over 2114 m² and the construction will take approximately 18 months. This development will take place on the western side of the university’s Main Campus, directly opposite the Furstenburg Gate and next to the new student housing.
 
The UFS is also progressing well with other building projects which commenced last year. One of the projects is a new Education Building which is being constructed opposite the UFS Sasol Library. Upon completion this building will be used for the training of maths and science teachers in the Foundation Phase. It will include three classrooms for 100 students each and an auditorium for 225 students as well as an office block. The auditorium will also be used as a classroom. The building has been designed according to environmentally friendly principles to save water and use power effectively. It should be completed this year.
 
Planning for the construction of more student accommodation on the Main Campus as well as the Qwaqwa Campus is already well underway. On the Qwaqwa Campus, a residence with 200 beds is being constructed. This also includes a computer laboratory. According to the planning, this residence should be completed by the end of the first semester in 2011. Furthermore, four residences will be constructed on the Main Campus. These residences are in the planning phase.
 
In order to place technology within reach of Kovsie students and thereby empowering them, computer laboratories were installed at the respective residences. The computer laboratories will eventually make provision for approximately185 computers for student use. Proper security is also planned to safeguard the equipment.
 
Work to a new building for the Faculty of Health Sciences is also proceeding rapidly on the site where the vehicle pool and Hertz were previously used. This will include a lecture hall for 200 students, five venues for 100 students each, as well as offices. Students from the School for Medicine and Occupational Therapy will make use of these facilities.
 
The new building for the Faculty of Economic and Management Sciences between the Flippie Groenewoud Building and the Wynand Mouton Theatre is also coming along nicely.
 
On the university’s Qwaqwa Campus a new Education building is being constructed. This building will include a lecturing hall with 100 seats, four 50-seat classrooms, six offices, ablution facilities, a biology and science laboratory, as well as an information technology laboratory for 60 students.
 
In the meantime, existing buildings are being renovated on all the campuses. This includes, amongst others, improvements to the Architecture Building, the Biotechnology Building and the quarters for service workers on the Main Campus. Other improvements that have already been completed include the renovation of the Odeion’s foyer and the Callie Human Centre.
 
In future, students, staff and visitors to the UFS can also look forward to a rock-climbing wall at the Student Centre on the Thakaneng Bridge, a memorial park for women, residential accommodation within a sports environment, and a botanical garden.

 

Media Release
03 February 2011
Issued by: Lacea Loader
Director: Strategic Communication (actg)
Tel: 051 401 2584
Cell: 083 645 2454
E-mail: news@ufs.ac.za

 

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