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04 October 2022 | Story Leonie Bolleurs | Photo Leonie Bolleurs
Matseliso Monnapula, Dr Jana Vermaas, and Liezl van der Walt
Matseliso Monnapula, Dr Jana Vermaas, and Liezl van der Walt. They are all involved in a research project to grow a new textile that resembles leather.

Pure curiosity. 

That was what gave rise to the development of a new textile, which was created in the Textile Lab and later evaluated for consumer use in the Sensory Lab of the University of the Free State (UFS).

Matseliso Monnapula, a master’s student in the Division of Consumer Science, is experimenting with bacterial cellulose, which is produced as a by-product in the fermentation process when making kombucha. Her goal is to determine its efficacy as a possible sustainable textile alternative for use in the apparel industry.

She says finding this textile alternative was initially the result of pure curiosity. “My brother brews kombucha, so we always wondered in what other ways this fascinating mass of cellulose could be used.”

“It was upon further research that we discovered that there actually is more to it – from within the textile industry, biomedical and tissue engineering disciplines, paper and audio speaker manufacturing, to even the food industry,” states Monnapula.

She had a greater inclination towards its use in the textile industry and presented the idea to her supervisor, Dr Jana Vermaas, Lecturer in the Department of Sustainable Food Systems and Development. “From there it was all systems go,” remarks Monnapula. 

The interesting process of growing this textile entails brewing tea (black, green, or rooibos tea can be used for this purpose) and adding sugar, vinegar, or previously brewed kombucha to maintain a favourable pH level. “One then inoculates the sweetened tea with a starter culture of acetic acid bacteria and yeasts, also known as SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeasts). It is then left for two to four weeks under specific conditions, during which the fermentation process takes place. In this period, the cellulose gradually starts to form on the liquid’s surface,” explains Monnapula, who was assisted by her co-supervisor, Prof Celia Hugo from the Department of Microbiology and Biochemistry. 

Vegan leather

The process of making bacterial cellulose accounts for the many benefits of this leather-like textile. “The process and its aftermath are significantly less detrimental to the environment than most commercial textiles produced today. It is known that the textile industry is characterised by the excessive usage of chemicals, water, energy, and the generation of toxic effluent that is not always disposed of correctly, thereby affecting human, vegetal and animal well-being. Moreover, it eliminates animal cruelty, and in relation to real leather, it will also be more available and less expensive.”

“Secondly,” she states, “bacterial cellulose is biodegradable, which is one way of contributing towards a circular economy in the textile industry, while moving away from the traditional linear economy we know today.”

Within the apparel industry, this textile, which is mostly suitable for accessories, can be used to make products that are typically made of leather. For instance, bags, jackets, shoes, and bucket hats. 

From kombucha to leather-like textile
Samples of the new textile made from Kambucha. Photo: Leonie Bolleurs 

 

Versatile use

She states that according to their knowledge, the bacterial cellulose has not yet been grown in South Africa or Africa. However, it has been extensively researched in America and Europe. “There have been several experiments to make biodegradable packaging, facial masks in the cosmetics industry, sausage casings, and fruit rolls – and interestingly enough – it can even be enjoyed as a native Philippine dessert known as nata de coco. This goes to show how versatile it is,” she says.

Monnapula says there is still plenty of room for improvement and further development before reaching a point where she can introduce her work as a contender in the South African market. For instance, the waterproof capability of the textile is yet to be perfected. “More research is also necessary to enhance its hydrophobic and decreasing its hydrophilic properties.”

She is also of the opinion that further dyeing, using environmentally friendly methods and natural dyes to obtain a wider variety of colours, is necessary. 

Penetrating the market

Once it is ready, this textile will be a marketable product that can be manufactured for commercial use. “A few European start-up companies have recently managed to penetrate the market and introduce apparel made from bacterial cellulose. I believe that upon further development and modifications, we can eventually follow suit,” says Monnapula.

The bacterial cellulose textile was evaluated in the UFS Sensory Lab, a facility mostly used to test food products. Liezl van der Walt, Sensory Lab Manager, states that the Sensory Lab plays a crucial role in determining the consumer acceptance of new products as well as how the product can be improved. She believes that the textile project was just the beginning of many more textile-related sensory panels to take place. 


Within the apparel industry, this textile can be used to make products that are typically made of leather, including bags, jackets, shoes, and bucket hats. – Matseliso Monnapula

 


News Archive

Thakaneng bridge: Valentines Promotions
2009-02-13

Thakaneng bridge: Valentines Promotions

Thakaneng bridge: Valentines Promotions - 13 February. Special discount! Prizes to be won!

  1. TRÄUMEREI

Enige twee ontbyte kry `n glasie sap en koffie gratis.
Enige middagete kry `n trammazini of glas huiswyn gratis.

Any two breakfasts get a free juice and coffee.
A free glass of wine or a trammazini with any lunch.

  1. VARSITY INFORMATION & TECHNOLOGY

Spend R1000.00 or more and stand a chance to win an Ipod Shuffle.
More specials in store.

Spandeer R1000.00 of meer en staan `n kans om `n Ipod Shuffle te wen.
Daar sal ook ander spesiale aanbiedinge in die winkel wees.

  1. VETKOEK FACTORY

Heart shaped vetkoek with delicious fillings and get a free heart shaped chocolate with every vetkoek.

Kom geniet `n hartvormige vetkoek met `n smaaklike vulsel en kry `n gratis hartvormige sjokolade.

  1. VARSITY HAIR STUDIO

Make Friday the 13th your lucky day at VARSITY HAIR STUDIO.
Amazing discounts will be given away!

Maak Vrydag die 13de jou gelukkige dag by VARSITY HAIR STUDIO.
Groot afslag op byna alles.

  1. KOVSIE PRIVAAT AKKOMMODASIE

Alle bestaande klante kom neem deel aan `n gelukstrekking en staan `n kans om `n etebewys ter waarde van R400.00 te wen.

All existing clients can enter into a lucky draw and stand a chance to win a free meal worth R400.00.

  1. XEROX

Kom neem deel aan `n “lucky draw” en wen een van verskeie geskenke.
Enter the lucky draw and win one of many prizes.

  1. MELLIN

LEVI, POLO en LUXION-KUKA promosies. Gratis geskenke wannneer `n raam gekoop word.
LEVI, POLO and LUXION-KUKA promotions. A free gift with any frame bought.

8. FRIENDLY SEVEN ELEVEN
Lots of in-store give-aways.
Vele weggee geskenke in die winkel. Besoek ons gerus.

9. RUSH HOUR
Kom prik `n ballon en wen een van vele pryse, waaronder T-hemde, `n koek, teddiebeer of dalk ‘n mini- make over.
Ons maak ook `n plan vir lekker musiek op die brug!

Win a cake, T-shirt ,a teddy bear or a mini make over in our burst a balloon competition.

10.MAMA`S KITCHEN
Kom neem deel aan `n gelukstrekking en wen `n piekniekmandjie vir twee.
`n Gratis geskenkie vir die eerste 100 klante.

Enter the lucky draw and stand a chance to win a picnic hamper for two.
The first 100 clients will receive a gift.

11. ROASTERS
Kom koop een chip twister en kry een gratis.
Buy ` chip twister and get one for free.

12 DIE DELI

Koop een groot ontbyt en kry `n damesontbyt gratis.
Kry skyfies gratis saam met enige burger.

Buy a breakfast and get a ladies breakfast free.
Free chips with any burger.

  1. NASHUA MOBILE

Buy airtime for R10.00 or more and stand a chance to win airtime worth R55.00
Koop lugtyd van R10.00 of meer en staan `n kans om lugtyd ter waarde van R55.00 te wen.

  1. VAN SCHAIK BOEKHANDEL

Alle aankope op 13 Februarie kwalifiseer vir `n gelukstrekking op die 14de Februarie en staan `n kans om `n geskenk te wen waaronder wetenskaplike sakrekenaars, memory sticks en penstelle.

All clients who buy something on 13 February 2009 may enter a lucky draw and may win gifts like pen sets, scientific calculator or a memory stick on 14 February 2009.

  1. ROCKSTARS

Kom koop `n T-hemp en staan `n kans om `n geskenk te wen.

Buy a T-shirt and stand a chance to win a prize

 

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