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04 October 2022 | Story Leonie Bolleurs | Photo Leonie Bolleurs
Matseliso Monnapula, Dr Jana Vermaas, and Liezl van der Walt
Matseliso Monnapula, Dr Jana Vermaas, and Liezl van der Walt. They are all involved in a research project to grow a new textile that resembles leather.

Pure curiosity. 

That was what gave rise to the development of a new textile, which was created in the Textile Lab and later evaluated for consumer use in the Sensory Lab of the University of the Free State (UFS).

Matseliso Monnapula, a master’s student in the Division of Consumer Science, is experimenting with bacterial cellulose, which is produced as a by-product in the fermentation process when making kombucha. Her goal is to determine its efficacy as a possible sustainable textile alternative for use in the apparel industry.

She says finding this textile alternative was initially the result of pure curiosity. “My brother brews kombucha, so we always wondered in what other ways this fascinating mass of cellulose could be used.”

“It was upon further research that we discovered that there actually is more to it – from within the textile industry, biomedical and tissue engineering disciplines, paper and audio speaker manufacturing, to even the food industry,” states Monnapula.

She had a greater inclination towards its use in the textile industry and presented the idea to her supervisor, Dr Jana Vermaas, Lecturer in the Department of Sustainable Food Systems and Development. “From there it was all systems go,” remarks Monnapula. 

The interesting process of growing this textile entails brewing tea (black, green, or rooibos tea can be used for this purpose) and adding sugar, vinegar, or previously brewed kombucha to maintain a favourable pH level. “One then inoculates the sweetened tea with a starter culture of acetic acid bacteria and yeasts, also known as SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeasts). It is then left for two to four weeks under specific conditions, during which the fermentation process takes place. In this period, the cellulose gradually starts to form on the liquid’s surface,” explains Monnapula, who was assisted by her co-supervisor, Prof Celia Hugo from the Department of Microbiology and Biochemistry. 

Vegan leather

The process of making bacterial cellulose accounts for the many benefits of this leather-like textile. “The process and its aftermath are significantly less detrimental to the environment than most commercial textiles produced today. It is known that the textile industry is characterised by the excessive usage of chemicals, water, energy, and the generation of toxic effluent that is not always disposed of correctly, thereby affecting human, vegetal and animal well-being. Moreover, it eliminates animal cruelty, and in relation to real leather, it will also be more available and less expensive.”

“Secondly,” she states, “bacterial cellulose is biodegradable, which is one way of contributing towards a circular economy in the textile industry, while moving away from the traditional linear economy we know today.”

Within the apparel industry, this textile, which is mostly suitable for accessories, can be used to make products that are typically made of leather. For instance, bags, jackets, shoes, and bucket hats. 

From kombucha to leather-like textile
Samples of the new textile made from Kambucha. Photo: Leonie Bolleurs 

 

Versatile use

She states that according to their knowledge, the bacterial cellulose has not yet been grown in South Africa or Africa. However, it has been extensively researched in America and Europe. “There have been several experiments to make biodegradable packaging, facial masks in the cosmetics industry, sausage casings, and fruit rolls – and interestingly enough – it can even be enjoyed as a native Philippine dessert known as nata de coco. This goes to show how versatile it is,” she says.

Monnapula says there is still plenty of room for improvement and further development before reaching a point where she can introduce her work as a contender in the South African market. For instance, the waterproof capability of the textile is yet to be perfected. “More research is also necessary to enhance its hydrophobic and decreasing its hydrophilic properties.”

She is also of the opinion that further dyeing, using environmentally friendly methods and natural dyes to obtain a wider variety of colours, is necessary. 

Penetrating the market

Once it is ready, this textile will be a marketable product that can be manufactured for commercial use. “A few European start-up companies have recently managed to penetrate the market and introduce apparel made from bacterial cellulose. I believe that upon further development and modifications, we can eventually follow suit,” says Monnapula.

The bacterial cellulose textile was evaluated in the UFS Sensory Lab, a facility mostly used to test food products. Liezl van der Walt, Sensory Lab Manager, states that the Sensory Lab plays a crucial role in determining the consumer acceptance of new products as well as how the product can be improved. She believes that the textile project was just the beginning of many more textile-related sensory panels to take place. 


Within the apparel industry, this textile can be used to make products that are typically made of leather, including bags, jackets, shoes, and bucket hats. – Matseliso Monnapula

 


News Archive

A year of various highlights for UFS
2016-12-19

Some other highlights:

Description: Prof Maryke Labuschagne, Bloemfontein Highlights Tags: Prof Maryke Labuschagne, Bloemfontein Highlights
The UFS was awarded five SARChI
(South African Research Chairs Initiative)
research chairs, the main goal of which is
to promote research excellence.
Read the full story


Description: Alumni Awards, Bloemfontein highlights Tags: Alumni Awards, Bloemfontein highlights

The UFS Chancellor’s Distinguished
Alumni Awards ceremony was held on
5 November 2016 on the
Bloemfontein Campus.
Read the full story


Description: Candice Thikeson, Bloemfontein Highlights Tags: Candice Thikeson, Bloemfontein Highlights

UFS student Candice Thikeson
completed a hat-trick of accolades when
she was named recipient of the Abe Bailey
Travel Bursary.

Read the full story

 

Description: Reitumetse Maloa, Bloemfontein Highlights Tags: Reitumetse Maloa, Bloemfontein Highlights

Reitumetse Maloa, a young researcher
at the UFS, is searching for a solution to
South Africa’s energy and electricity
problems from a rather unlikely
source: cow dung.

Read the full story


It was a year of various highlights for the University of the Free State (UFS) which has again illustrated the institution’s versatility by excelling on various fronts, from sports to research.

Some of these included Wayde van Niekerk winning a gold medal at the Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro; research on the locomotion of the giraffe, and the awarding of honorary doctorates to people such as veteran journalist Max du Preez.

Van Niekerk breaks 400m world record

After his feat in Rio on 14 August 2016, Van Niekerk was described as “the next star” by former US sprinter Michael Johnson, whose 17-year-old 400m world record he broke in a time of 43,03. Johnson described the way in which the Kovsie outperformed the 400m field as “a massacre”.

Wayde van Niekerk was described as “the next star" by Michael Johnson, whose 17-year-old 400m world record he broke in a time of 43.03.


Max du Preez and Trevor Manuel honoured


Du Preez (Humanities) said he was excited about the young minds he had interacted with at the Winter Graduation ceremony of the UFS. The leading journalist and political analyst was one of four recipients of honorary doctorates from the university on June 30 2016. The others were Prof Joel Samoff (Humanities), former finance minister Trevor Manuel, and Dr Reuel Jethro Khoza (both Economic and Management Sciences.

Research of great value for conservation


Dr Francois Deacon, Department of Animal, Wildlife, and Grassland Sciences at the UFS, and Dr Chris Basu, a veterinarian at the Royal Veterinary College in the UK, conducted research on the manner in which giraffes locomote from one place to another.

Very little research has been done on the manner in which these animals move. The research will assist in understanding aspects such as the giraffe’s anatomy and function, as well as the energy it utilises in locomoting. Such information could help researchers understand where giraffes fit into the ecosystem and the data would be of great value for large-scale conservation efforts.

 

 

 

Read more on these highlights:

 

Wayde van Niekerk:

15 August 2016: Wayde the next big star, says Michael Johnson
20 September 2016: I don’t see myself as a star, says Wayde
27 October 2016: Wayde, Karla shine again at KovsieSport gala night
24 November 2016: Wayde keeps winning off the track

Honorary doctorates:

29 June 2016: UFS will award four honorary doctorates during Winter Graduation ceremonies
2 July 2016: Trevor Manuel and Max du Preez among the recipients of honorary doctorates at UFS graduation

Giraffe research:

9 March 2016: Giraffe research broadcast on National Geographic channel
23 August 2016: Research on locomotion of giraffes valuable for conservation of this species
18 November 2016: Studies to reveal correlation between terrain, energy use, and giraffe locomotion

 

 

 

 

 

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